Sir Chris Bonington, Britain’s most famous mountaineer, is marking his 90th birthday by vowing to fulfil a promise for a friend. Now unable to climb in the great ranges of the world, he will instead support a project that is aiming to preserve and celebrate the traditions and way of life in the Himalaya. Sir Chris’ latest quest for adventure is to help complete the work started by fellow climber Doug Scott before he died, to fund the restoration of the Sherpa Heritage House, which was devastated by an earthquake nine years ago.
Sir Chris Bonington celebrates his 90th birthday on Tuesday 6 August. With a climbing career that stretches back to the 1950s and includes first ascents and major expeditions around the world (see ‘Note to editors’), he is the UK’s most famous mountaineer and a global climbing icon. He has also played a major role in the outdoor industry, working closely with Berghaus for 40 years, as an athlete, ambassador and consultant on product. In addition, he has held roles in organisations such as the British Mountaineering Council, Outdoor Industries Association, Council for National Parks, Outward Bound Trust, and the Bendrigg Trust. Berghaus has created a one-off special edition of its iconic Trango jacket as a 90th birthday present for Sir Chris. He will celebrate with close family and friends at home in the Lake District, Cumbria, and has plans for a walk around his favourite local fell, High Pike.
Over seven decades of adventure, Sir Chris led or was part of many expeditions to the Himalaya, which would have not been possible without the contributions of the local Sherpas. These included the South West Face of Everest expedition in 1975, which put the first Brits on the summit of the world’s highest mountain, when Doug Scott and Dougal Haston stood on the top of the world on 24 September. On that expedition, the head Sirdar (lead Sherpa) was Pertemba Sherpa, who went on to support Sir Chris and Doug on many other trips. He remains a close friend of Sir Chris.
Doug Scott subsequently founded the charity Community Action Nepal (CAN) to improve the standard of living in remote Himalayan communities and give something back to the mountain people who had helped him to achieve his mountaineering goals. In 2015, the Sherpa Heritage House, which is in the village of Khumjung in the Khumbu region of Nepal, was badly damaged in the devastating earthquake that hit the area. The house is the ancestral home of Pertemba Sherpa and following the disaster, Doug promised him that CAN would raise funds to rebuild it, and also increase its support of the local people in other ways.
CAN has so far raised £150,000 for the house and completed phase one, the construction of the complex religious wing, but Doug died of cancer in 2020, before he was able to fulfil his promise. The work continues, with funding needed to complete phase two, which will see the house transformed into a museum, photography gallery, and tea house to raise the income of the local community. As a patron of CAN, Sir Chris is playing his part.
Sir Chris said: “I can’t climb like I did any more, but that doesn’t mean that my spirit of adventure has diminished. My dear friend Doug made a promise to our great friend Pertemba, and I intend to see that it is kept. Community Action Nepal has been doing wonderful work for 30 years, and the restoration of the Sherpa Heritage House is of critical importance. I was so fortunate to be immersed in the traditional Nepalese and Sherpa culture during my expeditions to the Himalaya, and it is vital to preserve that during a modern era where so much about climbing has changed.
“We must never let the pivotal role that the Sherpa community plays in Himalayan expeditions go unseen. The house is a physical demonstration of that and a crucial part of sustaining the relationship between visiting climbers and local Sherpas, which plays such a fundamental role in the Nepalese economy.”
Reflecting on reaching the age of 90, Sir Chris added: “I’m grateful that I’ve had such a full, and fulfilling life, and have been able to spend so much of it indulging in my love of climbing and the outdoors. Through that, I have met so many great people and organisations, and formed some deep friendships. Having reached the age of 90, I have seen a huge amount of national and political change, and I think that gives me a balanced view of the challenges that we all face today.
“As for my birthday celebrations, I look forward to spending time with my wife Loreto, my wonderful family, and some of my closest friends. We all share a love of the outdoors, so I’m sure that they will join me for a Lakeland walk at some point during the day!”
If you would like to make a donation to the work of CAN to celebrate Sir Chris’ birthday please go their website www.canepal.org.uk/support-us.
Among the birthday messages that have been sent to Sir Chris include one from fellow climber and Berghaus ambassador Leo Houlding: “It must be wild to look back and reflect on all the great trips and positive things you have done for the climbing and outdoor community, with such perspective. You’ve been a huge an inspiration to so many, myself included – not just the climbs, but all you have done to share the love of adventure. Your support and friendship over these last decades is deeply valued. Thanks for everything mate and happy 90th!”
Noting Sir Chris’ contribution to the UK outdoor industy, Andrew Denton, CEO of the Outdoor Industries Association, said: “I won’t say anything here about Sir Chris’ extraordinary climbing achievements – they will be covered by those more qualified than me to comment. But I will mention the impact he had on the outdoor industries. He has been associated with Berghaus for decades of course but he has always had a passion for gear – designing, improving, looking for hacks to help on expeditions, working with many great British brands over the decades.
“Sir Chris is the honorary president for life of the OIA and is regarded with undying respect and affection by the UK’s outdoor trade, as an ambassador, a figurehead, a legend and a gentlemen. His inspirational pushing of mountaineering boundaries has been instrumental in Great Britain, and British brands, being recognised around the world as reaching the pinnacle of outdoor gear design. The outdoor trade is so very fortunate to call Chris one of our own – and honoured to wish him a very happy, healthy 90th birthday.”